Here we are, on the Atlantic IntraCoastal Waterway (AICW, a/k/a “The Ditch”)!!!!!! This is a moment that we have been anticipating for a long time. The AICW is a series of protected waterways just inside of the Atlantic that runs from Norfolk, VA to Key West, FL.

We have a rushed departure from Norfolk on Dec 18 in order to make the last opening of the Gilmerton Bridge, and we go through our first lock (Great Bridge) at sunset. The weather is awesome, sunny, mid ’60s – we made it!  We spend the night at a free dock near Chesapeake City.

The next day, we stock up on provisions and propane and head out in the early afternoon, motoring down “The Ditch.” We anchor in too little water at Pungo Ferry, in an area that inspires us to hum “Dueling Banjos” from Deliverance. We anchor just south of the bridge, tucked into a mud bank, putting out a second anchor off the stern to keep us from dragging into the channel.

The next morning we leave Pungo Ferry (alive and unscathed) at 5:30am, motor out over the VA-NC state line, and down 32 NM to Coinjock, North Carolina. We sidle up to the dock for the afternoon and night. The next morning, we meet up with our fellow cruising pals Ric and Melissa and motor 28 NM to Durant, NC, then 50 NM the next day to spent the night at Dowry Creek, and then a final 66 NM on 12/23 to Beaufort, NC.

From this first leg on the AICW, we learn that there are a couple of factors that make navigating these waterways very different from our previous legs:

1. The “project depth” for the AICW is 12′. Despite being plastered all over even the most up-to-date charts, this depth was set in who-knows-when, and is far from the actual depths today.
2. We become acquainted with the Army Corps of Engineers’ website, which provides the most recent depth surveys, which are often not that recent and seldom display depths close to 12′. Trying to compare these surveys to the charts while underway proves to be a bit difficult.
3. The AICW is subject to frequent shoaling, which happens at a faster rate than even the depth surveys can keep up with. We draw 6’8″, and a lot of the surveys show several sections of less than 5′, so we’re anticipating some hairy spots where we might run aground, or have some difficulties anchoring.
4. Given the shallow areas, we might need to go outside of the AICW in order to continue moving south, and allegedly it can be a little tricky to enter and exit the AICW through inlets, if not impossible. (More on this later)
5. There are many bridges. The fixed minimum for the bridges is 64′, but most of them are fixed at 65′. We are 62′ tall before the antennas, tri-color light, and windvane, which looks like a close call every time. If the bridges are not fixed, then they have timed openings or open on request. If they don’t open on request, and you miss the last opening of the day, then you’re effed.

Here are some photos from our first leg on the AICW!

Ric and Melissa aboard Ethos

S/V Ethos